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in-cosmetics 2014 Report Part 2: The Ones to Watch – Innovations in Suncare and Haircare

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At this year’s in-cosmetics trends presentations, suncare and haircare were singled out as having massive growth and innovation opportunities.

I’ve picked out the key points that you need to know about current trends and what to focus on for the future.

Haircare

Let’s start with haircare, the second largest beauty market globally that’s evolved from a fairly functional staple to sophisticated high quality offering.

According to Euromonitor, most new product development has come in conditioners, which grew by 38% between 2008 and 2013. Hair oils are a key growth contributor and women are using them as part of a multi-step haircare routine.

Already a mature sector, there are now hair oils for different hair types and conditions, e.g.:

  • John Frieda hair oil for damaged hair
  • Mark hill hair oil for frizzy hair
  • Dove hair oil for mature hair

Cross-category trends

Haircare brands are looking to other beauty sectors for inspiration. This has led to overlapping trends between skincare, colour cosmetics, fragrance and even oral care.

Skincare: Scalp Health is the new buzzword in haircare. Like facial skin, scalp skin needs nurturing, so it makes sense for haircare brands to borrow ingredients and terms from Skincare. E.g. Dr Dennis Gross Resilience, which uses peptides, retinol, and collagen in its Anti-Ageing Scalp Serum.

Haircare serums, like Skincare serums, offer a concentration of ingredients for more effective delivery.

Hair masks are a big trend, providing intense moisture and hydration.

Protein and vitamin E are key haircare ingredients.

Make-up: Excitement, novelty and fashion elements are finding their way into hair colour which is promoted as a cosmetic accessory in much the same way as a new lipstick. Kisspat hair chalks look like eye shadows {or artist’s chalks} and can be easily applied to wet or dry hair for an instant transformation.

Fragrance: Scent is a primary purchase driver in toiletries, yet haircare brands are only just waking up to the opportunities. Chanel is successfully tapping into this trend with fragranced hair mists for its popular No.5, Chance, Coco Mademoiselle and Allure brands.

Mainstream brands need to up the in-shower experience with formulations that provide long-lasting fragrance benefits.

Dry shampoos are a boom market right now offering enormous scope for fresh feel fragrance.

Oral care: targeted, multifunctional and standard mass products differentiate oralcare. Now haircare is witnessing similar category development and premiumisation. Eg Aveda Invati {targeted}, Pantene BB Cream {multifunctional} and Timotei {standard mass}.

Suncare

UV protection is becoming standard practice for so many beauty products, making it harder to define the meaning of suncare. Pick up a BB or CC cream, bodycare or hair protective product and you are likely to find it has added SPF.

Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2014 shows that 62% of global skincare shoppers prioritise sun protection benefits as essential or high priority.

So including sun protection benefits in products are an important means of adding value.

Datamonitor suggested achieving this as follows:

1. Care and Cure, not just Cosmetic

Championing protective oils as key ingredients and enriching products with anti-oxidants, vitamins and minerals.

E.g. Douvall’s Argon Bronzing Oil

2. Convenient Novel Application Methods

Easy to apply products and packaging that facilitate usage –and perceived as offering better value for money

E.g. Neutrogena Wet Skin sunblock spray that adheres to skin that’s wet from swimming or sweat;

Higasunne UV Protection Powder that’s used like a face powder, absorbs sweat and excess oil and can be applied over make-up

3. Making it Personal

Defining the end consumer with products “just for them”.

E.g. Banana Boat Triple Defense for Men;

Blistex Lip Balm for men with sun protection;

Glitter Tots Sparkle Screen SPF 30+, a fun but serious application.

What about the Future? This is Where it gets Interesting!

Opportunity 1: Ingestible sun protection

UV Protection Harmonized Water Technology –you take a drink before going out in the sunshine and it’s meant to neutralise UV radiation and limit its absorption.

Edible Photoprotective Diet Supplement called phytoflORAL prevents UV light from affecting the skin and inhibits the appearance of ageing.

Opportunity 2: “Smart” suncare products

In June the first bracelet that tracks sun exposure is launching that recommends the level and type of sun protection required based on user’s skin type.

High-tech wearable trackers for a more precise tailored offering –these facilitate real-time interaction with products.

Opportunity 3: Skin tone based targeting

These products are a bridge between suncare, skincare and make-up.

E.g. Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturiser offers a “natural glow” for different skin types.

Bioré Perfect Face Milk evens out skin tone and can be used as a make-up base.

Opportunity 4: Stretching the scope of sun protection

Products that target tattoo wearers eg Coppertone Tattoo Guard

Nail polishes formulated with UV protection to minimise sun-related fading and nail discolouration eg MAC Overlacquer

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